Concealing and Highlighting

• June 4th, 2009
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School is back in! The next several weeks at my local meetings are going to consist of training focused on advanced color. Last week was our first class which was all about foundation, concealer, and highlighting. Some information was not news to me while other information was fascinating. It’s exciting to learn real application techniques that I can teach other women who have the types of issues these tricks to address.

I guess the best place to start is with the definition of concealers and highlighters. It’s important to know the differences. Some people may have a misconception that the two are synonymous and provide the same function, however, this is not true. Concealers do just that. They conceal. They cover up what you don’t want to have visible. The do not highlight or brighten. At least, they are not meant to do so. Highlighters, on the other hand, draw out creases and lines to make them appear less defined.

Concealer

When applying concealer, always be conscious of the area that is being covered. This is the area to be concealed. The concealer should be applied only to the area meant to be covered. Failure to do this will only defeat the purpose. By putting concealer on the entire area, the dark area will still be visible. The best way to apply concealer is with a concealer brush. If you don’t have one, you can always use your ring finger or a sponge. A brush is best, though. Tap the concealer directly onto the dark area.

Concealer is to be applied before foundation. Allow concealer to dry for about two minutes before applying foundation. This gives it time to set up. This way, when foundation is applied, it won’t move the concealer with it.

Concealer comes in different colors. The colors we work with in our company are yellow, ivory 1, ivory 2, beige 1, beige 2, bronze 1 and bronze 2. It is important to know when to use which colors. When working with darker discolorations such as dark bruising, birth marks, “port wine” (red) markings, etc. it is best to start with yellow. Yellow pulls the dark area closer to neutral. In some cases, yellow may be enough and then you can put foundation over the yellow. For darker markings, start with yellow and then apply the color that matches the skin tone over the yellow, followed by foundation and powder if desired or necessary.

1. No concealer. Dark circles city (mine aren’t as dark as they used to be thanks to Targeted Action Eye Revitalizer):

2. Concealer only. Hopefully, the area that is concealed is visible.

3. Add liquid foundation in full coverage.

4. Add mineral powder. I’m so bold. Revealing my face sans makeup!

Can you see the dark areas? I hope not!

Commonly Concealed Problems

Dark Circles. When concealing dark circles, conceal just the dark circle. Never put concealer on puffy areas (commonly referred to as bags under the eyes). Putting concealer on puffy areas will only accentuate the bags.

Scars. An important thing to remember about scars is this: they are nonporous and therefore, they won’t hold the product. Before applying the concealer, first dab a bit of moisturizer on the scar itself. Then dust it with powder to create an adhesive. Then apply the concealer just to the scar.

Highlighter

The highlighting pen is to be used on top of foundation. It brightens and draws out. It makes lines appear less defined by pulling them forward. Lightening and brightening pulls forward while darkening pushes back creating a shadow. Areas to use the highlighter include creases near the mouth (smile lines) as well as the nose. I also put it over dark eye areas after concealing circles. It brightens the area.

Another great highlighting product is the highlighting mineral powder available in matte (Pink Porcelain) and shimmer (Pink Stardust). I’m a shimmer girl so I use the Pink Stardust. I use this instead of the highlighter pen. This is because I use the Targeted Action Eye Revitalizer and as a result I do not need to use as much concealer (if any) and I also don’t need to use the pen. They look a little harsh because my dark circles are not so dark anymore thanks to the eye revitalizer.

To use the highlighting powder, I first apply the white powder to the dark area. I use the eye defining brush. I have an old one from my older brush set. I just use that brush for the highlighter powder now. Next, I blend the pink powder so the white isn’t gleaming on my face. It blends it nicely and I have a nice healthy glow.

And then I apply makeup. Of course I’ll share the finished result.

Tags: Concealer, Covering Bruises, Covering Scars, Dark Circles, Makeup Tips